Early in the summer, we traveled to Europe for a family vacation, specifically Barcelona, Paris, and Antibes in the South of France. This trip was sparked by my son, Owen’s, post-high school graduation trip with his friend crew. They had planned a two-week tour through Portugal and Spain, so we decided to meet him at the end in Barcelona, and start our family vacay from there.
To avoid overload, I’m sharing a recap of our trip in three parts. And I should emphasize recap as these posts are in no way meant to be guides. More like inspiration — simply what we did and a peek at it all, if you’re thinking about planning a trip to any of these places or considering options for travel destinations.
So, let’s get started with Barcelona, the first leg of our trip. We actually traveled there in 2019 and had a fantastic time, so we were happy to go back again to join up with Owen and hang out with friends who were also meeting up with their kids who were on the trip with him. But because we’d been there relatively recently, we weren’t as pressed to do all the tourist things — actually, we never really are — and took a more relaxed approach to our time there.
Here’s the gist of it all…
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
We flew United direct from IAD to Barcelona, leaving shortly after 6pm EST and arriving there just after 8am. At the airport, we easily got a taxi to our hotel about a 30-minute drive away. We didn’t ride in another car again until we took a taxi back to the airport. During our time in Barcelona, we walked (and walked and walked) everywhere. There is a Metro system that is pretty easy to navigate as well as a bike share program, but we opted to get around on foot, so we could see more, enjoy the nice weather, and stop to check out the sights or have a bite to eat when we felt like it. We also got in lots of steps!
WHERE WE STAYED
We stayed at the Catalonia Ramblas, part of a Spanish hotel chain with locations all over Spain as well as a few other European and Caribbean destinations. We stayed in one of their hotels (a different location than this one) for a night the last time we were in Barcelona and really liked it, so we booked the brand again. This location was a couple of blocks off Las Ramblas and very close to Plaza de Cataluña. Our room was comfortable, the staff friendly, and the service excellent. One of the best features, though, was the pool. We really wanted to have a pool, so we could enjoy a refreshing dip after walking around all day. The pool area was lovely… not too big, but large enough, with a pretty patio restaurant/bar right next to it. I highly recommend staying here (as well as the Catalonia Catedral where we stayed previously).
WHAT WE DID
One of my very favorite things about Barcelona — Spain in general, really — is the food. Everything is so fresh and local and delicious, and the best place to get a good sampling of it is Mercat de la Boqueria, a huge open air market located right off Las Ramblas. It is filled with stalls that offer everything from fresh cuts of meat and seafood to all kinds of fruits and vegetables to baked goods. While you can buy the raw ingredients for making your own meals, there are even more prepared options — tapas on toothpicks, all kinds of sandwiches, cones of Iberian ham and chorizo, fresh fruit cups and juices, marinated anchovies, oysters and other ready-to-eat seafood, and lots of sweet treats. We would buy small bites and eat them on the go, but some stalls have counters where you can sit. There are also restaurants on the perimeter of the market if you want to sit down for a meal, but still take in the vibrant scene. The market was a stop for us daily, sometimes more than once!
Of course, we had to include some Gaudi in our visit. We were too late to get tickets to Sagrada Familia, we went to (and loved) Park Guell the last time we were in Barcelona, and Levi and I did Casa Batlló on a Spain trip many years ago, so we opted to check out La Pedrera-Casa Milà, a building in the heart of Barcelona designed by Gaudi. It was his last residence and, later in 1984, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We did a self-guided audio tour that took us through the ground level courtyard, his apartment on the top floor (the other floors are occupied by current residents), the attic, and the roof terrace. The attic was the most impressive part to me constructed with brick arches that support the rooftop above. The roof is neat, too, with chimneys built in Gaudi’s signature style that are intended to look like organic forms and decorated with mosaic tiles. Many elements of the roof and other parts of the building had an insect-like aesthetic And the views of the city from there are fantastic. (See more photos of Casa Milà in the slide show below.)
More on the food! Along with the market, we also enjoyed fantastic food at several restaurants. I love that dining is such a drawn-out, leisurely activity in Spain. Every evening, we would meet up with our friends for light tapas and sangria, then wander around awhile, eventually finding a restaurant where we would enjoy a delicious, long, late dinner. We didn’t make any reservations in advance, which worked well for us, since we weren’t tied down to a schedule, and we could pop in places that looked inviting. I recommend every single one of these spots that we went to:
* Our first meal was a light breakfast at ARTiSA, a charming cafe near Owen’s hostel in Plaça Reial.
* And the first evening started at Bar Centric Raval, a cute little place close to our hotel, where we had drinks and a few small dishes with our friends.
* El Bandoler la Alcoba, in the Gothic Quarter, is small and cozy with very friendly staff and phenomenal food.
* We went to Bar Lobo for a great array of tapas in the early evening with a big group as well as dinner with just our family at the end of our vacation.
* L’Antic Bocoi del Gòtic, also in the Gothic Quarter, served a nice menu of tapas as well as very tasty pizza, in a lovely twinkly lit setting.
* We popped into the Corgi Cafe while we were waiting for our hotel room to be ready on the way back (we stayed in Barcelona one more night before flying back to DC). Along with brunchy fare and coffee drinks, there are also a couple of corgis that hang out there!
The shopping is great in Barcelona, so we spent some time browsing (and doing a little buying) during our time there. While many of the chains are the same here — Zara, Mango, H&M, Uniqlo come to mind — they are so much bigger, with a much wider selection, in Barcelona. There were some right on the same street as our hotel, and others were within easy walking distance along Passeig de Gràcia (lots of designer stores there, too) , around Plaza Catalunya (Portal de l’Àngel is a great shopping street just off the Plaza), and some on Las Ramblas. There are also a lot of small shops and boutiques selling clothes, housewares, art, and more in locations off of the main shopping areas. It was fun to roam around the Gothic Quarter and see what unique finds we might stumble upon. After we were back home (of course), I learned about La Roca Village, an outlet area 30 minutes from Barcelona and accessible by train, with over 150 boutiques selling discounted designer brands. On the list for next time!
I have to underscore just how much we walked. It’s such a great way to see the sights, take in the vibrant yet laid back vibe, and enjoy the beautiful, lively city. It’s exciting to get lost among the meandering streets of the Gothic Quarter, so interesting to view and learn about centuries-old landmarks, fun to people-watch on a stroll down Las Ramblas, and relaxing to wander along the waterfront area.
Both this trip and our last one, we walked to Passeig Lluís Companys, a promenade bookended by the Arc de Triomf and Parc de la Ciutadella. The park is a lovely green space containing a gorgeous multi-level structure and fountain designed by Gaudi, walking paths, and a pond with row boats to rent. The area also encompasses the Barcelona Zoo, the Catalan Parliament, and a couple of museums.
Morning walks were also nice. I’m an early riser, so I would go on long walks before the rest of the family woke up. I loved seeing the quiet city start waking up — the market getting ready for the day’s rush of patrons, small trucks with morning deliveries of fresh fare, street cleaners washing away the night’s dregs, residents on their way to work or getting in a morning run — and catch a little glimpse of everyday, local life.
TIPS & INSIGHTS
1) Attractions we’ve seen on previous trips that I highly recommend: 1- Sagrada Familia is architect Antonio Gaudi’s most famous work and perhaps Barcelona’s most famous structure. 2- Park Guell, an outdoor masterpiece by Gaudi consisting of gardens and whimsical structures. 3- Montjuic Castle and the cable car ride up to it. 4- The Picasso Museum with an extensive collection of his works.
2) If there are sights you know you want to see, especially Sagrada Familia, reserve tickets in advance. They sell out, sometimes weeks in advance during the high travel season.
3) Friends of ours arrived in Barcelona before us and did a guided walking tour of the Gothic Quarter and nearby areas as well as a bus tour of other parts of the city, and they really enjoyed it.
4) We didn’t do this, but a food tour sounds like it would be fun (and yummy), too.
5) There are many outdoor markets — flea , food, and other specialty markets — around Barcelona occurring various times during the week. Find more details about them here.
6) If you travel in summer, I recommend booking a hotel with a pool for cooling off on hot days.
7) Shortly after we left Barcelona, we heard the news about the protests over mass tourism there. It was surprising to us, since we didn’t encounter any animosity from locals. Most, in fact, seemed very friendly and welcoming.
MORE SCENES FROM BARCELONA
Have you been to Barcelona? Do you have any good tips and insight? Feel free to share in the comments!